Follow these tips from area pros and master this daunting culinary task
Patrick D’Amico, chef-owner of Metro Pub & Grille in Middletown, hears it all the time: Customers will only eat fish in a restaurant because they have no idea what to do with it at home. “The majority get intimidated,” he says. “Which fish do they throw on the grill? If they do cook it, it’s always well done. ‘What did I do wrong?’ they ask. ‘I did what you said to do and it didn’t turn out.’”
Chad DiFebo, an owner of Feby’s Fishery in Wilmington, has heard similar complaints from customers. “The average person has a heart attack trying to boil water,” he jokes. Fish is cause for a major meltdown.
But if you want to prepare a healthy meal for your family, it’s hard to beat fish. A protein with a flavorful punch, it’s loaded with nutrients, including vitamin D, omega-3 fatty acids, calcium, magnesium and zinc.
Here’s a primer from the pros to help you feel more confident at the seafood counter and in the kitchen.
Lean, Fat and Firm
In general, you can break fish into three categories: lean, fat and firm. Lean fish, which is typically white-fleshed, falls apart easily when it’s over-handled. Think flounder, trout, tilapia and cod. Fatty fish has a higher oil content and holds together well during the cooking process. Picture tuna, salmon and Chilean sea bass. Despite the “fatty” moniker, these fish are full of nutrients.
Firm “steak-like” fish includes swordfish, cobia and wahoo. “They are very dense, large-flaked fish,” says Kate Applebaum, owner of Cajun Kate’s Cajun & Creole Restaurant in the Booths Corner Farmers Market. “There’s not a lot of fat in them. These are fish you don’t want to overcook.”
Grouping fish into categories helps you find recipes. A preparation for flounder will likely complement another lean fish. It can also suit a fatty fish, such as Chilean sea bass. A recipe designed for the bass, however, might overwhelm the lean, delicate flounder.
Fish with a high oil content, such as salmon, and some firm fish can also stand up to recipes for hearty proteins—even red meat. “Depending on the texture and the fat content, you can do some of those heavier fall-like preparations,” says Applebaum, the former chef at Harry’s Seafood Grill on the Wilmington Riverfront. She’s comfortable braising swordfish with red wine, shallots, and peppercorns.
Fishing for Fish
When it comes to finding the freshest fish, cultivate a relationship with the man or woman behind the seafood counter. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Whole fish—which are often a great value—should be smooth to the touch. Avoid fish with sunken, cloudy eyes. The area under the gills should be bright red. While a whole fish might make some people squeamish, it’s often a good deal, and the counterperson will clean it for you.
When you push on the flesh of any fish, it should lightly spring back with no sign of your fingertip’s impression. If the fillet seems broken and unattractive, you’re better off passing.
“Number one is smell: If it smells fresh like the ocean, you probably have a good piece of fish,” Applebaum says.
Don’t be afraid to be adventurous. “There are so many fish out there, it’s unbelievable,” says Timothy Drozdowski, the chef de cuisine at Harry’s Seafood Grill. “People don’t explore enough.”
The Right Approach
For newbies, one foolproof way to prepare fish is to make a stew, bouillabaisse, or chowder. “Swordfish and mahi are really good stewing fishes,” Applebaum says. “We put mahi into our seafood gumbo and it holds up well.”
Simply cut the raw fish into cubes and toss it in the broth. “You’re getting the flavor of the fish in the stew and your fish is absorbing the flavors of the stew,” she says. Needless to say, there’s no risk of the fish getting dry. Be careful, however, with lean fish like cod, which will break into bits if cooked too long.
Swordfish with spicy jalapeño pea puree, asparagus and polenta at Harry’s Seafood Grill. (Photo by Pam George)
Grilling, particularly at this time of year, is another option. First, make sure your grill is clean, D’Amico says. Then choose the right kind of fish. Drozdowski likes to grill fish with a high oil content, such as salmon. “The heat melts the fat, so the fish basically bastes itself as it’s cooking,” he says.
D’Amico says tuna, swordfish, and wahoo, which are flaky and dense, are also great for the grill. “You get into snapper—even some of the rockfish—and it might seem dense but it’s more delicate,” he warns. “They’re better in a pan. Your flounder and flat fish – forget about the grill.”
The broiler, oven, and a good cast-iron pan are fallback tools for most types of fish. As for the preparation, lemon, butter or oil, salt, and pepper can be enough. “When I get a fish that I’ve never had before, I just cook the fish—a minimal amount of salt and pepper just to taste the nuances,” Drozdowski says. Like wine grapes, the flavor of fish is influenced by its habitat.
No matter the cooking method, adjust the cooking time to a particular piece’s density and thickness, DiFebo says. Also note that two fillets might require different cooking durations, even if they come from the same fish. A flounder has a thick and thin side, he explains. Of course, you’ll also need to know how the diner likes his or her fish. Like red meat, many types of fatty fish can be cooked to your preferred “temperature,” from rare to well done. “Tuna? Rare? Perfect!” D’Amico says. If you’re opting for rare, make sure you trust your seafood vendor, the experts agree. Don’t opt for rare fish if you doubt the fish’s freshness or quality.
Avoid flipping the fish frequently or moving it around in the pan. “It’s maybe one turn for me and then again on the presentation side” before plating, Drozdowski says. “With a thinner fish, I may cook it only one side with basting at the end. Some fresh herbs dropped in, and you’re good to go.”
Realize that you’re going to overcook some fish. If that happens, make a tuna fish-like salad out of the overcooked—but not burned —fish. Or, make fish cakes.
Like any culinary skill, practice makes perfect, DiFebo says. “The more you cook fish, the more you’ll know how to cook it. After you get it right a few times, trust your instincts.”
