Above: Pictured from left: shrimp with orzo and squid ink at The Federal, oysters at Matt’s Fish Camp, octopus at Sirocco, lamb sliders at Sirocco, swordfish at Raas, bronzino at Aroma. The Federal, Raas, Aroma photos by Pam George; Matt’s Fish Camp photos courtesy of SoDel Concepts; Sirocco photos courtesy of Sirocco.
By Pam George
Once upon a time, the stretch of highway between Lewes and Rehoboth Beach was nearly deserted in winter. In downtown Lewes and Rehoboth, most stores and restaurants hibernated until spring, when happy tourists returned.
But then developers built outlet stores on Route 1, and low property taxes and new communities attracted retirees from Washington, D.C., New York and New Jersey. Meanwhile, tourists began coming all year. As a result, more businesses remained open in winter to serve visitors and locals.
That is good news for foodies who want to participate in southern Delaware’s most popular activity — dining — without summer crowds. Indeed, according to Southern Delaware Tourism, dining is more popular than going to the beach, tax-free shopping, and biking. The area’s food and beverage scene is so happening that Southern Delaware Tourism copyrighted “Culinary Coast.” Last year, the tourism organization created a dedicated website for it.
So, gas up the car and grab your wallet. Here are six reasons to explore the Culinary Coast this winter.
The Deals
Discounts and promotions are the perfect reason to head south. Something is going on just about every night of the week. (Saturday is often the exception.) While burger, wings, taco and pasta nights abound, you’ll also find some tasty gems.
For instance, Fins Fish House and Raw Bar in Rehoboth Beach on Tuesdays features $20 lobster dishes from 3 p.m. to close. On Thursdays, crab takes a turn.
Many SoDel Concepts restaurants have rotating specials each night. For example, NorthEast Seafood Kitchen in Ocean View takes 25 percent off checks on Tuesdays and offers half-priced bottles of wine on Thursdays.
Harvest Tide Steakhouse in Lewes features multiple specials each night, including a 6-ounce filet mignon for $29 on Wednesdays.
The Diversity
If you haven’t visited the Delaware beaches in some time, you’ll be surprised at the wealth of globally-inspired restaurants.
Downtown Lewes, for instance, now has an Indian restaurant, and it’s no mom-and-pop operation. Raas occupies a picturesque Victorian on Savannah Road, complete with pretty peach walls, turquoise accents, flowery wallpaper and a front porch with a turret.
Prices reflect the upscale ambiance, the ingredients and the chef’s skill. Gyanendra Gupta, locally known as Chef “GG,” has cooked in five-star resorts in India and the Caribbean. Try the chef’s three-course tasting for $80 per person.
Between Lewes and Rehoboth is The Secret Sauce Thai Kitchen, which moved into a Vietnamese restaurant’s spot. There is a menu section for vegans and a lengthy list of fried rice, curries, wok and noodle dishes.
In downtown Rehoboth, Aroma Mediterranean Cuisine in Stoney Lonen’s old location plugs the niche for hummus, tabbouleh, falafels and kebabs.
New to Rehoboth is Sirocco Food & Drink, which takes its cue from the Mediterranean coast. Start with flaming saganaki or lamb smash burgers and move on to grilled lamb chops with a warm couscous salad or pan-seared scallops with chorizo. Don’t miss the Manhattan topped by an opaque, jiggling dome that dissipates into smoke. It’s dinner and a show.
The Libations
Coastal Sussex County is the state’s brew capital, largely thanks to Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, which has a production facility and tasting room in Milton and a brewpub in downtown Rehoboth. Both are must-do stops on any beer crawl.
Dogfish Head now distills spirits featured at Chesapeake & Maine, located next to the brewpub. There is another reason to visit. On Sundays, 1¼-pound whole lobsters are $15. (Sides are a la carte). Make reservations.
Dogfish is not the only brewery that has expanded operations. Last year, Revelation Craft Brewing Co. opened its second — and much larger — brewery in the original site of 16 Mile Brewing in Georgetown. (The first Revelation is in West Rehoboth.) DaNizza Wood-Fired Pizza has an on-site food service at the new brewery.
Dewey Beer Company’s brewpub in Dewey now has a production facility in Harbeson, and you can buy food from Pizza Machine next door.
Larger brewpubs with more elaborate menus include Big Oyster in Lewes, part of the Fins hospitality group, Thompson Island Brewing Company in Rehoboth and Ocean View Brewing Company in Ocean View. The last two are part of Southern Brewing Company, a division of SoDel Concepts. But all three have off-season specials.
Like Thompson Island, Crooked Hammock Brewery boasts a spacious dining room and covered outdoor area for a cold-weather beer garden.
Don’t forget the wineries, including Nassau Valley Vineyards, the state’s first; the new Twin Branch Winery in Milton; and Salted Vines Vineyard & Winery in Frankford which is a few miles inland from Bethany Beach.
Honey is used to make the wine you’ll find it at Brimming Horn Meadery outside Milton. Leave your preconceptions at the door and order a flight; there are usually 12 meads on tap.
The Views
Even in winter, diners benefit from the seaside locale. Harbour fronts the Lewes and Rehoboth Canal, and while the outdoor deck might be closed, the bar offers a stunning view of Lewes Harbour, especially a sunset. Clay Nelson, formerly of Eden, is the chef at Lorraine and Gary Papp’s place, and the food is top-notch. Save room for Lorraine’s desserts.
Grain on the Rocks, part of the Grain Craft Bar + Kitchen family, is at the Cape May-Lewes Ferry Terminal, so you can watch the ferries come and go across the Delaware Bay while enjoying a burger and beer.
Victoria’s Restaurant in the Boardwalk Plaza has such a stellar ocean view that the dining room is tiered so all diners can enjoy it. Try one of the bar’s prosecco bomb cocktails.
In Rehoboth, Above the Dunes has a sweeping second-floor ocean view. The menu focuses on trending dishes such as cheesesteak eggrolls, flatbreads, salads, bowls and sandwiches, including Nashville Chicken.
The Raw Bars
Raw oysters rule in coastal Sussex, and if you only eat them in the months containing an “r” in the name, now’s the time to slurp a few.
Start with the new Lewes Oyster House in downtown Lewes, where the oyster bar is against the picture window. The restaurant is the original Rose & Crown location, and owners kept many features that made that establishment warm and London-like. Picture an exposed brick wall and wood bar. However, they’ve also updated the décor, which pays homage to the spirit of old seaside taverns.
Matt’s Fish Camp on Route 1 in Lewes also puts its raw bar front and center. Discounted oysters are offered on Tuesdays. (There are also Matt’s Fish Camp locations in Bethany Beach and Fenwick Island.)
Bluecoast Seafood Kitchen, also on Route 1, has a raw and traditional bar. The buttermilk-fried lobster tails are a good warmup to the meal.
In downtown Rehoboth, Henlopen City Oyster House helped spearhead the raw bar resurgence at the beach. Steamed and grilled oysters are also available. Interestingly, HCOH only offers lunch in the off-season. Some swear by the lobster Reuben.
The intimate Drift, which opened last year on Baltimore Ave., dresses its oysters with mignonette and a tomatillo cocktail sauce. One fashionable bivalve dish includes Fifer Orchards Asian pear ponzu, Szechuan chili crunch and trout roe. Ceviche and crudo are also on the raw bar menu.
The Farm-to-Table
Admittedly, sticking to local ingredients during a mid-Atlantic winter is hard. However, several coastal restaurants buy from farmers with greenhouses, and regardless of the season, the chefs make every effort to support regional producers.
Heirloom in Lewes, for instance, features Kennett Square mushrooms — credit owner Meghan Lee, who grew up in the Chadds Ford area and worked at Savona Bistro. You’ll typically find a dish featuring exotic mushrooms and an optional side of mushrooms that’s large enough for sharing. Note that the restaurant closes in January for R&R.
The Federal in downtown Rehoboth has a tiny dining room and mind-blowing flavors. The restaurant started as an offshoot of Equinox in Washington, D.C., which is famous for fritters. However, the coastal sibling now features a full menu with seasonal ingredients.
In Fenwick Island, One Coastal is now owned by Matt Kern, who received a James Beard Award nomination when he was at Heirloom. Kern is arguably one of the most dedicated locavores in the area, and he lists his farmer vendors on a board in the restaurant.
Our Harvest takes a family-style approach to dining. There are shareable small plates, flatbreads and “feasts,” aka entrees served on a platter.
— For more information on restaurants, visit CulinaryCoastDE.com.
