Americans have embraced Pan-Asian food, with its ‘heat flavors to bright flavors,’ and New Castle County offers it in abundance
Not too long ago in America, we began to find taste buds we never knew we had. Slowly, steadily, we began to transition from the once-obligatory lineup of good-ol’ meat-and-potatoes restaurants—occasionally accented by Americanized-Italian pasta houses—and make room for snappier Asian accents, first with Chinese take-out, then through a smattering of Indian, or (somewhat confusingly, at first) Japanese sushi and Thai curries.
Things haven’t really been the same since. And things have really never stopped rolling on this happy road to pan-cultural, equal-opportunity dining, even in Delaware, which has a reputation among chefs for timid palates and easily startled sensibilities.
In New Castle County, we can now savor food not only from Japan, but from Malaysia, even from Cambodia. And it has forever proved that our parents, and our parents’ parents, were oh-so-wrong to have assumed that Asian glory could reach no higher than those restaurants where the cocktails have umbrellas, General Tso remains in command and dumbed-down homogeneity is the rule.
Chef Brian Ashby, who’s the force behind the new 8th and Union restaurant and its Asia-worshipping menu in Wilmington, was cautiously hopeful when he crafted his menu that the new millennium’s American is more willing to accept such offbeat notions as pork belly soup and unripe papaya salad.
Chicken Satay is one one of offerings at 8th and Union.
“If I can get their butts in the seats, if I can get them to try it, they’ll like it,” he says. Partly, that confidence springs from his sense that the flavor profiles and balance-obsessed aesthetics of Asian cuisines touch so many already established pleasure points. “Asian food goes everywhere from heat flavors to bright flavors. It hits you everywhere on your palate,” Ashby says.
Out on the streets, this new class of Asian artfulness is being expressed in some instances one cuisine at a time, in restaurants that keep a fairly steady focus on Thailand, or Malaysia, or Vietnam. Each is remarkable not only for showing us “new” tastes, but also for sensing how deeply their own flavors and techniques resonate with American palates that already love generously spiced, deeply savory food.
With Vietnamese, the character is lighter, brighter, fresher, and deeply aware of those subtle-but-powerful moments. In Thai food, you’ll find a magical balance between salty and sweet and sour. And when it comes to the handful of Delaware restaurants that serve authentic Chinese food, just a taste or two will tell you why these are places where entire families of actual Chinese-Americans come to find actual Chinese goodness.
More often, the new Asian restaurants that are most invigorating embrace a happy repertoire of Pan-Asian philosophies, mingling and mixing the common and seemingly contrary Asian characteristics of complexity and simplicity, boldness and subtlety.
As a result, it may be the best time ever for diners to be pleasantly perplexed by some uncommon treats: subs with liver pate; eel soup with aged cabbage; spicy pig innards with snake beans. Don’t fret. Be brave. You’ll find things lighter than you expected, less scary than they seemed, and worth deeper exploration.
Here’s a look at some reliable places to find your next Pan-Asian revelation, supplemented with a short list of Chinese restaurants where authenticity still rules:
PAN-ASIAN DESTINATIONS
Kimchi tacos at Kapow Food Truck include Korean beef, kimchi, cilantro and green onions,
served on corn tortillas. (Photo by Joe del Tufo)
Pinang (Newark)
At the forefront of Delaware’s Malaysian mini-invasion, Pinang also ventures tastefully into China and Thailand. The Dish to Try: Beef Rendang. pinangcuisine.com
Southeast Kitchen (Trolley Square)
Snug setting and budget-friendly menu belie a deft touch with the sweet-salty-sour-spicy tastes of Thailand. The Dish to Try: Chicken Laab lettuce wraps. southeastkitchen.net
8th and Union Kitchen (Little Italy)
Brand-new city-sleek concept from chef Brian Ashby seems committed to proving how well contemporary culinary ideals cohabitate with the “soul-food” of Vietnam and Thailand. 8thandunion.com
Rasa Sayang (North Wilmington)
Elegant atmosphere elevates this Malaysian-meets-Thai menu. The Dish to Try: Green Curry Chicken. rasasayangusa.com
Bánh Mì Boy (Newark)
“Vietnamese hoagies” are a happily heretical notion in this sub-loving state. The Dish to Try: Original Bánh Mì. banhmiboy.com
Tasti Thai (Christiana)
Possibly the county’s best overall exploration base for Thai tastes —and the most willing to truly make things “Thai hot.” The Dish to Try: Som Tum (a.k.a. green papaya salad). tastithai.com
Kahl Bee (Elsmere)
The fun, funky passions of Korean cuisine sometimes show best in the initially alarming side dishes (crunchy baby crabs, anyone?), while beef barbecue effortlessly resonates with American sensibilities. The Dish(es) to Try: Bulgogi (grilled beef), Jaeyook Bokum (spicy pork and kimchi stir-fry).
Ubon Thai Cuisine (Wilmington Riverfront)
The kitchen’s deft touch and the sexy setting help reveal the inherent sophistication of Thai tastes. The Dish to Try: Lemongrass Lollipops. ubonthaicuisine.com
KOI on the Go (food truck)
Fresh-made Thai food somehow tastes better when you have to chase down the restaurant. The Dish to Try: Pork dumplings. Find on Facebook.
Kapow Thai Guy Cuisine (food truck)
Foodies rave for these simple-but-delicious Thai-and-beyond interpretations. Dish(es) to Try: Thai Guy Wings, Kimchi Tacos. kapowtruck.com
Ph? Cali (Milltown/Kirkwood Highway)
The rather bleak strip-mall setting fades into insignificance with each spoonful of “pho” soup at this Vietnamese gem. The Dish to Try: Pho with Beef Brisket and a Vietnamese coffee.
Takumi (North Wilmington)
There’s well-crafted sushi here, but also some rare Sichuan delights. Dish to try: Pork Belly with Garlic Sauce. besttakumi.com
Satsuma Asian Kitchen + Bar (Trolley Square)
Artful Pan-Asian interpretations are well suited to life’s need for lively, fun interludes. Dish to Try: Cambodian Spare Ribs. satsumakitchen.com
Le Shio Asian Fusion Cuisine
(North Wilmington)
Sushi-centric menu takes some welcome excursions into the lighter, brighter tastes of Greater Asia. Dish to Try: Lamb with Oyster Sauce and Basil Sauce. leshio.com ?
Asian Kitchen (Hockessin)
Once known as Padi, Asian Kitchen still embraces the subtly bold tastes of Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. The Dish to Try: Chili Crab. padirestaurant.com
Hunan (North Wilmington)
The always well-executed menu is an invigorating mash-up of Chinese, Malaysian, Thai and Vietnamese. The Dish to Try: Crispy Salt-Baked Shrimp. asianhunan.com
NOT-YOUR-DADDY’S CHINESE
The Crownery (Hockessin)
Longtime suburban stalwart has consistently upheld more authentic ideals of Chinese cuisine, especially for diners brave enough (and fluent enough) to order from the “Chinese menu.” The Dish to Try: Double-Cooked Sliced Pork Belly with Bean Paste. thecrownery.com
Bamboo House (Newark)
Long one of the “secret gems” for foodies who appreciate well-executed and de-Americanized Chinese food (or who welcome the occasional Japanese accompaniment). The Dish to Try: Crispy Whole Fish. bamboohouserestaurant.net
Yi Palace
(North Wilmington and Newark)
With perhaps the most hard-core (and potentially intimidating) Chinese menu in Delaware, Yi Palace is the place to vanquish any squeamishness over delicacies such as pork belly, pig intestines and frog legs. The Dish to Try: Chicken with Hot Pepper. yipalace.net
Bon House
(Mill Creek/Kirkwood Highway)
Dependably enticing spot for supplementing your sushi with unapologetically “real” Chinese entrees. Dish to try: Spicy Pork Intestine with Hot Dry Pepper. Check Allmenus.com.
